
How to Mount
a Beetle
A step-by-step guide for beginners, from a dry specimen to a finished display with open wings.
Download this guide as a PDF
Print it or keep it on your phone next to the pinning pad. Same guide, five languages.
Hey, I'm Chris
Thanks for picking up an EntomoBoxes beetle kit! Good news first: mounting a beetle is much easier than pinning a butterfly or a moth.
A beetle's body is like a tiny robot. It's built from a hard outer skeleton (the exoskeleton) made of plates connected by flexible membranes. The joints are snapped together tightly and they're incredibly strong, so you can use gentle force to move the legs without worrying about breaking them.
Properly prepared specimens also matter beyond the hobby. They help scientists study anatomy, classify species and document ecosystems over time.
If you get stuck anywhere, just write me at info@entomoboxes.com. I'm always happy to help.
Chris
Founder of EntomoBoxes
The whole process at a glance
Hot water softens the muscles and the joints.
Pins go around the body, one leg at a time.
Room temperature, away from sun and humidity.
Move it into a frame or collection box and enjoy.
What you'll need
Everything below comes in your EntomoBoxes beetle kit. Each name links to the product if you ever need a refill.

In the kit
- A real beetle - Goliathus meleagris, Chalcosoma atlas or Eupatorus gracilicornis, unless you chose a kit without one
- Pinning pad with guidelines, so you can center the body
- 2 wing support pads - they hold the open wings at the level of the body
- 50 setting pins with big heads, to hold everything in place
- 2 entomology pins - thin pins for the wings
- 2 sheets of clear foil to keep the wings flat while drying
- Hard-tip tweezers
Setting pinsBig-head pins for the body, legs and foil.
Entomology pinsThin stainless steel pins that hold the flight wings.
TweezersFor posing legs, unfolding wings and pulling out antennae.
Clear foilLies over the wings so they dry flat and neat.
Not in the kit, you'll need
- A kettle or a pot to boil water
- A glass jar - a clean pickle jar works perfectly
- Something to keep the beetle underwater - pliers, tweezers or a spoon
- Paper towels
Rehydrate the beetle
Most beetles arrive dry, in a small paper envelope or bag. Before you can move the legs, antennae or mandibles, the muscles and the soft membranes between the joints need to soften. This step is super easy, but it's also one of the most important. A dry beetle can crack or break.
- Boil enough water to fill your jar.
- Pour the hot water into the jar.
- Carefully place the beetle into the water.
- Hold the beetle down with your tool (pliers, tweezers or even a spoon) so it's completely underwater (Fig. 1). I like using a pair of pliers for this.
- Wait for about 1 hour, and that's it!
Use a tool to put the beetle in and take it out, never your fingers.

The beetle comes out soft and flexible, ready to be loosened up and posed. Take it out of the jar and pat it dry with a paper towel.
Loosen the joints
Wiggle time! Before you start posing, loosen up every joint. It makes the pinning much easier.
The legs
Each leg has three main joints:
- The joint where the leg connects to the body.
- The middle joint, like a knee.
- The joint closer to the tip, like an ankle.
Move each joint fully in all directions. Don't be afraid to use a bit of force, beetles are built tough, like little tanks.
The antennae
You'll find them tucked in near the eyes. Gently pull them out and give them a little wiggle.
Don't panic. If a thin piece near the tip of a leg comes off, it was probably loose or broken before you started. Set it aside and glue it back once the beetle is dry, with a drop of insect glue.
The wings
Open the elytra, the first pair of hard wings. They aren't used for flying, they're armor that protects the soft flight wings underneath. Pop them open confidently, the joints are very strong (Fig. 2). Underneath you'll see the transparent flight wings, neatly folded. Carefully unfold them, wiggle them a bit and let them fold back (Fig. 3).


Pin the body and legs
Now the beetle is soft and loose, so it's time to pin it into position. The pins go around the body, never through it.

- Place the beetle on the white pinning pad. Use the guidelines to center the body, it makes the finished display look clean and professional.
- Insert the first few setting pins around the body, not through it, to hold it in place (Fig. 4).
- Start with the front legs, the pair closest to the head. Use your tweezers, a few pins and your fingers too.
- Work from the joint closest to the body toward the tip. When you like the pose, secure each segment with a pin (Fig. 5).
- Pin in your way? Move it. This is a back-and-forth process and tweaking things as you go is completely normal.
The front legs give your beetle its personality. Go for a natural stance, something symmetrical, or get creative. Need ideas? Look up beetle displays online and get inspired.

- When the first front leg is set, repeat the same on the second one.
- Move on to the middle legs and then the hind legs. The process is exactly the same: one leg at a time, from the body toward the tip, and don't rush (Fig. 6, 7). This is where your beetle starts to come to life on the board.


The photos in this guide show a Chalcosoma atlas. Goliathus meleagris and Eupatorus gracilicornis are mounted exactly the same way (Fig. 8).

Spread the wings
The most eye-catching part! Open wings really bring your beetle to life and make the whole mount stand out.
- First pin the two wing support pads close to the body, right next to where the wings attach (Fig. 9). They guide how the wings will sit.
- Open the elytra, one side at a time. You may need to remove a few pins that are in the way, just put them back later. Hold the beetle down firmly with your other hand while you lift the elytron. They're strong and may resist a bit, but they can handle it.
- Gently unfold the flight wing with tweezers and position it the way you like: natural, stretched wide or even in motion.
- Once it's in place, take a thin entomology pin and pierce it through one of the strong front veins to hold the wing down (Fig. 10). Don't worry about the hole, it won't be visible once the wing dries.


- Repeat the same on the other side. After opening one wing, the beetle may look slightly out of position. Don't worry, once the second wing is spread and pinned, everything balances out again (Fig. 11).
- Double-check the legs. They may have shifted while you worked on the wings. Reposition and re-pin them if needed.
- Gently pull the antennae out from under the head with tweezers, pose them and secure them with pins (Fig. 12).
- Place a piece of foil gently over each wing and pin the foil around the edges, not through the wings (Fig. 13). It keeps the wings flat and neat while drying.



Dry and display
Your beetle is done, now it needs time. It has to dry slowly and evenly, so be patient here.
Where to dry
Somewhere at room temperature. Avoid:
- Direct sunlight
- Humidity - it can lead to mold
How long
Keep it on the pinning pad for at least 6-8 weeks, so it's completely dry. Rushing can lead to warped wings, loose legs or mold.
You can place the beetle near a heater or a radiator to speed things up. Just be careful not to overheat it or dry it too quickly.
Check the specimen regularly for signs of pests like dermestid beetles, or for mold. If you see anything suspicious, isolate the beetle and take action.
Taking it off the pad
Once it's fully dry, remove the support pins and the foil, and your beetle is ready for display, framing or your collection. A display frame keeps it safe from dust and pests.

Download this guide as a PDF
Print it or keep it on your phone next to the pinning pad. Same guide, five languages.
Common mistakes and FAQ
Avoid these
- Skipping the hot water. A dry beetle can crack or break when you move it.
- Pinning through the body. The pins go around the body and the legs.
- Forgetting the legs after the wings. They often shift, check them before drying.
- Taking it off too early. Less than 6-8 weeks can mean warped wings and loose legs.
Do these
- Use the guidelines on the pad to center the body.
- Work one leg at a time, from the body toward the tip.
- Move pins whenever you need to. Tweaking as you go is normal.
- Check for pests while the beetle dries.
Can I really use force on the legs?
Yes, gentle force is fine. Beetle joints are very strong, much stronger than a butterfly's.
Will the pin hole in the wing show?
No. Once the wing dries, the hole from the thin entomology pin isn't visible.
A piece of a leg broke off. Is it ruined?
Not at all. Set it aside and glue it back with insect glue once the beetle is dry.
How long does it have to dry?
At least 6-8 weeks on the pinning pad. A heater speeds it up, but don't overheat it or dry it too quickly.
Check out our other free guides: How to Pin a Butterfly and How to Pin a Blue Morpho. Still stuck? Write me at info@entomoboxes.com.
Thank you, and happy mounting!
EntomoBoxes is a small business from Slovakia. I design and make many of our tools myself and test them on my own collection. Your support means a lot.
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